The bottoms—but not the tops—of the wave slow down because of what?

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The bottoms—but not the tops—of the wave slow down because of what?

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JinaCurrey75 · Answer 1 · 2024-12-31T07:55:03+0000

friction

In shallow water close to shore, waves start to drag on the bottom of the water. The bottomsbut not the topsof the wave slow down because of friction. This causes the waves to steepen until they break and fall over, carrying water onto the shore as surf.

The bottoms—but not the tops—of the wave slow down because of what?

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